Activities
Premuda rewards the curious. Below the water lies one of the Adriatic's great cave dives; above it, the relics of a watchful military past, day trips to neighbouring islands, and a coastline of quiet, often deserted coves to explore.
Premuda's signature dive: a connected system of underwater caves a couple of nautical miles offshore. The main chamber has a bubble-like shape, its ceiling pierced by cracks through which sunlight falls in cathedral-like shafts. Entrances range from about 11 to 30 metres; conditions are best from May to September. Around Premuda, the small islands of Hrid Bračić and Lutrošnjak also offer outstanding dive sites.
On the island's high ground stands a former military radar station, a relic of the Yugoslav era when these outer islands guarded the approaches to the coast. From the top you see the sea and the neighbouring islands.
Scattered across the island are old military bunkers and emplacements, slowly being reclaimed by the scrub. They are an atmospheric reminder of Premuda's strategic position on the edge of the Adriatic.
Masarine is a natural rock formation off the coast of Premuda. Not a set of islets but a massive breakwater that has shielded the island from storms for centuries, which is what made permanent settlement here possible at all. In calm conditions you can reach it by stand-up paddleboard or by swimming with fins. Warning: dangerous currents can develop depending on the weather, so only strong swimmers should cross alone.
Nearby excursions
Premuda's neighbours make easy day trips by boat or local ferry, each with its own character and history.
One of the finest sandy bays in the northern Adriatic, a short boat ride from Premuda. Knee-deep, clear water and fine sand almost everywhere, which is exactly what you want with children. The bay is wide enough that everyone finds an anchoring spot. If you fancy a walk, you can cross the island on foot in about 20 minutes to the small main village. A full day at the beach.
A car-free island just to the north-east, with holm-oak forests (one grove is a protected natural monument), sandy coves and a seafaring past: in the 18th century Silba owned one of the Adriatic's largest sailing fleets. Worth seeing are the round Toreta, the Tower of Love, and the church and bell tower at the island's heart.
A low, sandy island of lagoons and quiet beaches, first recorded in the 10th century as Aloep. Croatian families settled here in the 15th century fleeing the Ottoman advance. Look for the 16th-century watchtower in the village and the ruins of St Paul's near Banve bay. Today Olib lives on wine, olive oil and cheese.
Restaurants & dining
The village has two restaurants, both serving Dalmatian food. Some islanders still fish themselves and supply the kitchens directly, so the catch often goes from sea to plate the same day.
Our recommendation. Meat and fish, pancakes and home-made ice cream. Busy in high season, so book ahead.
Google MapsWorth visiting mainly for Peka (slow-cooked dishes under the traditional bell lid). The rest of the menu is limited.
Google MapsShopping on the island
About 5 minutes' walk from the house. Open year-round with better prices than the harbour shop. The main stop for everyday shopping.
Google MapsRight by Krijal harbour, serving mainly sailors and boat visitors. Slightly higher prices; only open in the main season.
Google MapsA few families press their own olive oil, with no industry involved. With a little luck you can buy fresh oil straight from them. Ask around on the island; the host is happy to help.
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